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Timeout new york restaurants12/17/2023 The Food: Great pizzas with fantastic toppings like the wonderful fior di latte, meatballs, sausage and broccoli rabe, plus salads and starters like fritto mare and roasted eggplant. The Vibe: Warm and inviting under the austerity of the B.Q.E. Vegetarian options are also available, including the simple Margherita ($21) with textbook San Marzano tomato sauce that’s a sensational stage for that excellent cheese. The house-made daily fior di latte also pairs splendidly with other toppings like the Puglia pizza’s broccoli rabe, unobtrusive burrata and meatball bits ($36), and the Lucania’s pecorino, fried egg (which recently arrived scrambled, but tasty nonetheless) and (slightly) spicy sausage ($24). The cheese’s milk flavor is fresh, and bright and grassy, and concentrated enough to conjure visions of idyllic countryside dairies. But the fior di latte that covers about half the pies is Farina’s own signature, even more demonstrably in opposition to the previous rough, blackened crust than its own pliant version. It’s an excellent, reliable vehicle for the kitchen’s other winning ingredients. That this wasn’t precisely to my taste didn’t stop me from patronizing the place plenty of times, but it always landed more like burnt than that more polite parlance, to my palate.įarina’s cloud-soft crust is on the opposite end of the spectrum, those grains mingling marvelously to a light, yielding end. Moto’s signature here-one I’d be able to identify anywhere-was its charred, rigid underside. Photograph: Courtesy of Angelo Caranese/Amy Caranese They’re portioned between personal and lunch-sized, so one for two might not do. In addition to the other happy irregularities, they’re also baked for three to four minutes, versus the more typical 90-120 seconds, because the oven runs a little low, according to another partner, Michael Turner. And he uses seven grains-some from around Italy, others sourced nearby-to make ’em to terrific effect. Pisaniello’s pizzas are square, more or less. That ancestral brick oven, for example, was originally intended for bread. Chef/partner Antonio Pisaniello, whose previous credits include Italy’s La Locanda Di Bu’, goes into further detail in a Righteous Eats video about what makes these creations irregolare. Beer is also available.įarina serves a style of pie that it notes in an Instagram post was also forged over a century ago in Naples. The bar pours some pleasant house wines available by the glass and, delightfully, half or full carafe. The dining room’s layout is borrowed, too: two tops in the window, a communal table in the center, with more seats on the periphery, all as charming as ever. Farina’s wood-fired variety had been in use for about 157 years even before Moto carefully restored it last decade. With a little luck and goodwill, they’re passed down with the same gravitas as rent-controlled apartments. New York City’s water gets a lot of credit for its internationally revered pies (similar lore’s attached to our bagels), but the best pizzerias in town, not incidentally, also happen to list storied ovens among their particulars. First, as Pizza Moto, until earlier this year when the operation returned to the moveable feast from whence it began, and now as Farina, which opened in August. The incongruously inviting Hamilton Avenue space enveloped by the rumble and the rubbish around the Brooklyn-Queens Expressway has been popular for its pizza since 2015.
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